The car rental manager in Rethymno, Crete: “What’s the problem?”

“A slow leak in the left rear tire,” I said. “I have to put air in it every morning.”

A thick layer of dust covered the car. He gave it the once over, hands on hips.

“Where have you been?”

In light of the present problem, I didn’t want to admit that I’d driven the compact to the furthest reach of a gravelly, pot-holed two-track at the end of Rodopos Peninsula.

“I’ve been all over your wonderful island.”

That was at least the truth. Although I hadn’t done it all during this latest trip.

He nodded at the rear window, opaque with dust. “Do you see anything?”

“I never look back!”

Zovigli peak, elevation: 1214 ft (370 m) at Akrotiri Spanda, the northern-most point of Rodopos Peninsula, Crete